Hermès Eau de Pamplemousse Rose It’s been used in ritual at least since the Stone Age (stoned age? Armani Acqua di Gio It’s warm, rich, woody-ambery, adding a swirl of amber sweetness and hint-of-tobacco to fragrances. You’ll get a sweetness, maybe a hint of caramel, from this ‘fruit of Heaven’ as it’s known. ', Comme des Garçons Black Pepper Jo Malone London Rain and Angelica. Chanel No. Freesias get their name from a German doctor, from Kiel in Germany - Friedrich Heinrich Theodor Freese (1795-1876). Chloé L’Eau de Chloé Guerlain Idylle Rose essential oil can come in the form of rose otto (also known as attar of roses), or rose aboslute. (In fact, Hyacinthus orientalis originated in Syria, but it’s now grown ornamentally all over the world.). Ylang ylang grows in the Phillipines, Java, Réunion and the Comoro Islands. Usually, the whale vomits these sharp bits. Not surprisingly, a synthetic version’s often used. Chanel Coromandel Often, only the lightest touch of orris is needed in fragrances – but ‘noses’ wouldn’t be without it, for the world. As tended to happen at ‘bacchanales’, he imbibed too much, and became somewhat over-amorous towards a priestess. Sensual, for sure, but again, with a more delicate touch. I use it for feminine and masculine fragrances: it gives an "openness" and sensuality to fragrances. Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gioia Essenza Once upon a time, dried fruits were a serious luxury, for the wealthy to enjoy in haute cuisine. So juicy, you can almost imagine this running down your chin: sweet, slightly tart, and of late cherry’s become Miss Popularity in the perfume stakes, with the rise in pretty, girly fruity-florals. Gwen Stefani L (What you see in a photo is the pod: pop it open and the tiny seeds spill out.) Not only are roses the most romantic of flowers to look at: they’re an absolute cornerstone of perfumery – the most important flower of all, from the point of view of a nose: sometimes powdery, sometimes woody, musky, myrrh-y, clove-like, sometimes fruity, or just blowsily feminine – but always, intensely romantic. The tall tree – native to America, and great for furniture-making incidentally! Estée Lauder Sensuous Lancôme O de Lancôme Clarins Eau Dynamisante The dahlia fragrances on the market, we’ve a hunch, are inspired by the show-stopping appearance of this flower, rather than its scent: it’s not about to take over from jasmine and rose in the perfumer’s arsenal, anytime soon. Dolce & Gabbana The One But in the hands of a gifted nose…? With a sharp balsamic-spicy, almost lemony scent, elemi’s invaluable as an incense ingredient and also for ‘fixing’ perfumes, tethering ingredients which otherwise would fade fast. It might be from birch tar (which has a leathery smokiness), or juniper, aldehydes or other synthetics, designed to give a skin-like scent. Taif roses have 30 petals and grow around the city of Taif in western Saudi Arabia, not far from Mecca. Nasomatto Absinth, Can a fragrance really smell of water? ). Actually, fennel produces TWO types of oil: bitter fennel, and sweet fennel, which can be used as top notes OR heart notes, blending well with lavender, rose, geranium, basil, lemon, rosemary, violet leaf and sandalwood. Ormonde Jayne Sampaquita Frederic Malle Vetiver Extraordinaire They’re also often left to produce fruit, which can be infused to extract an intense berry scent. The agarwood is a result of a reaction to a fungal attack, which turns this usually pale and light wood into a dark, resinous wood with a distinct fragrance – a process that takes hundreds of years. ', Narcissus has been exciting perfumers for millennia. Notes of fig leaf and fig fruit can both be used. Then you’ll know that honey comes in so many different varieties, each taking their smell (and colour) from the flowers on which the bees that produce it have feasted. Serge Lutens Arabie But we happen to adore it…, Bottega Veneta Bottega Veneta Balmain Eau d’Ivoire Guerlain Tonka Impériale Christian Dior Miss Dior Cherie L’Eau (And read here about beeswax, which also makes its way into fragrances.) (Nobody’s quite sure where the first flowers were grown; some believe it originated in Persia, and made its way to China via the Silk Route.). 'So far, I have used black pepper only once in my perfumes - together with a bundle of citrus and vetiver. Penhaligon’s Quercus Sugary and sweet, sometimes greener and drier, the note can conjure up the smell of the popular American soft drink Kool-Aid: the same ingredients (methyl anthranilate and dimethyl anthranilate) go into both. As a perfume ingredient, cannabis has been in the news recently as a controversial ingredient in actor Richard E. Grant’s debut scent.
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